Wood and Leather Maintenance

By Pablo | Posted in kit, leathercraft, tools
March 11th, 2009

Although I have a few bits of the most up to date textiles and plastics in some of my kit I still prefer leather, wool and wood. Not only are they functional in a traditional way but they are also aesthetically pleasing and come within the ethos of the what I like to consider is the spirit of bushcraft and wilderness living.

There are a couple of drawbacks with using these materials though. Firstly, they tend to be heavier than modern plastics and fibres and fabrics, which is why I don’t really use them a great deal when going light or when tracking. The second drawback is that they take a little bit of breaking-in and maintaining.

Every six months or so I give my wood and leather an overhaul usually in spring and autumn. This is in addition to the more regular chore of ensuring that after each excursion, blades and axes are wiped down and sharpened and any leather and wood is likewise wiped down and clean.

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For the natural woods i.e. axe handles and handles of knives I use a very fine sandpaper and gently rub the surface of the wood. I like to keep the grubby patina on the wood so I don’t rub too hard. I then give the handle a thin coating of boiled linseed oil.

Some people prefer other oil coatings such as Danish oil and they use a piece of wire wool to knead the oil into the wood. If you use linseed oil it’s important that it isn’t applied too thickly or it will take too long to dry and the handle will become slippery and dangerous to use (especially when the hand is sweating or during wet weather).

I don’t tend to do much else with the handle as it should be well maintained from new. As soon as I buy an axe I soak the head in a bucket of anti-freeze for 72 hours. This will forever seal the axe head on to the handle. The water will make the wood swell and the anti-freeze will make it stay swollen.

A tip I learnt was to remember this little ditty for applying linseed oil to new axes handles:

“Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for life.”

If you follow this then a little annual maintenance is all that’s needed. I use a coating of walnut oil for any wooden spoons I use. This is the only oil I really trust for use with or near food stuffs.

Many folk apply renaissance wax to their blades. I tend not to do this, but I do check to make sure carbon blades aren’t rusting. If I’m not going to use a blade for a while, I’ll coat it in a thin layer of oil before returning to a dry sheath.

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You can’t beat giving leather items a good polish, especially leather footwear. Boots made completely of leather aren’t really in vogue nowadays, however I still use a pair of Rogue Rangers and Bison tracker boots both of which are leather. After cleaning them and giving them a polish I gently warm up the leather in the sun (or on a radiator) and apply a bit of leather wax. Finally, I apply a coat of dubbin.

The dubbin works for leather sheaths and pouches as well. It puts back a little moisture and nourishment back in the leather and provides a degree of protection against moisture and water.

I believe that wood and leather are there for a purpose and not purely for show, but it doesn’t do any harm to shine up your kit and make an effort to maintain it now and again. I’ve found that you will be rewarded by the effort.

All the best,

Pablo.

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5 Responses to "Wood and Leather Maintenance"

  1. Loz on BCUK says:

    Hi Pablo,

    Juts to let you know that any rags, clothes etc that you use to oil your spoons, knife handles etc, esp when using BoiledLinseedOil ensure you dispose of ccarefully, these rags have a tendancy to spontaniously combust due to the heat generating action ( exothermic ? ) of the curing oil !!!

    I woodturn, and i hang all used rags on the clothes line for a day before returing to a metal buscuit tin the the shed.

    Regs

    Loz

    http://www.craobhcuigdeag.org

  2. Pablo says:

    Loz – Thanks for tip. I’ve now ordered all biscuits to be eaten in the house as I need the tins!

  3. Pablo says:

    I’ve been told that Danish oil on handles is also not a good idea as it’s too slippery. Tung oil is probably best.

  4. Chris Grant says:

    I reckon thinned Tung oil at a push Pabs as an alternative to Danish, but make linseed your first choice as it gets very hard & most importantly it dries to a satin finish, best to heat it before you apply it also.
    I use 2 coats, wire wool between them & two coats of carnauba/bee’s wax (wire wooled to satin finish)which completely seals it.

  5. Algodonrabo says:

    Pablo,

    Nice article and good tips. Another good reason to keep your application of Linseed oil very light is to help reduce the chance of developing blisters. Apply it lightly and wipe it down to a very thin coat. Also, applying a thin coat “gun oil” to your carbon steel axe/knife blades and let them air dry before putting them back into their sheath they won’t develop any rust and it cleans them up, as well. Like you emphasize, a little TLC at the end of a outing will save a tonne of problems in the middle of the next one.

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